Slip lasted shoe with tucked in heel cover, and method



prilZ', 1948. r w, BRAUN 2,440,362

SLIP LASTED SHOE wITH TUCKED IN HEEL COVER AND METHOD Filed July 25,1944 2 shets-sheet 1 INVENTOR v ATTORNEY.

Aprl- 27, 1948.

W. BRAUN SLIP LASTED SHOE WITH TUCKED IN HEEL COVER AND METHOD FiledJuly 25, 1944 2 Sheets-Sheet. 2

Wmrge QQ/10N,

INVENTOR ATTORN EY.

Patented Apr. 27, 1948 UNITED ks'rn'rlzs PAT-ENT 'foFfFl-CE sur`'LAs'rED SHOE WITH'frUoKED 1N t covert, AND METHOD Walter Braun, `LosAngeles, Calif. Aimplication July 25, 1944, 'Serial No. 546,455

s claims. (o1. 3e-'34,.)

This invention relates to the manufacture ofA heel which is covered.

The prior art discloses shoe construction and methods in which an upperis stitched to a `sock lining insole, to which sock lining a Aplatformcover is stitched all the Vway around. The shoe is then put on the last,and a platform usually comprising a cushioning Vpad and a heel raise arelaid over the bottom of the sock lining, the platform cover is thenpulled over and cemented down against the lower surface of the platform,and an outsole is then attached to the bottom of the platform. Thisprocess is satisfactory with most low heel shoes or with certain highheel shoes in which the heels are not beveled.

In higher heel shoes of this general design wherein the heelsarebeveled, the process has had to be altered and the shoe construction'consequently different. The reason for this is that when sewing aplatform cover to the insole on a high heel or even a medium high heelshoe this cover must be full enough around to take in the last beforeturning back over the edge of the platform, whereupon after the turningthere is too much material in the heel portion of the cover to allowlasting it over the heel Without Wrinkles. On the other hand, if the'platform cover, considering the platform as combined heel raise andpad, is cut small enough to make a neat fit over the heel by avoidingfullness of material, such a platform cover when turned up around theupper prior to lasting will not permit the last to enter the shoe.

Consequently, manufacturers have heretofore used on beveled higher heelshoes a separate narrow pad cover stitched to the sock lining but onlywide enough to fold over the edge of the pad itself and be secured tothe lower surface of the pad. The heel raise was covered separately in aconventional manner and attached by cement to the covered felt pad.

Such a method'and construction suffers the disadvantages of: (l) addedcost consisting of the regular cost of lasting the pad cover under thefelt pad plus the cost of covering the heel raise; (2) an interruptedline which is unfiattering to the heel; (3) the bond between the heelraise and the cover pad is unreliable as it can be done with cement onlyand quite often the rolling movements of the foot tear open the bondbetween the heel raise and the pad. It is obvious that inthe type ofshoe under discussion the heel cannot be nailed to the upper, becausethe upper Y -2 Acontains nothing to nail to except the sock lining, onlythe V,cushioning -pad being interposed 'between the sock lining andftheheel raise, which pad 4is not suflciently stable to furnish a good4nail seat. It is an object of .my 4inventionto produce a slip "lastedshoegwith `a platform `cover for Athe .combined pad andheel raisesimilar to the construction employed 4on 'aloWer or unbeveled heel shoe,but improved for adaptation to a beveled `higher heel shoe, by; formingaslit or .slits inthe 'back portion of lthe heel lift, utilizing aplatform cover full lenoug'haround the heel Ato `enable the shoe tobereadily slipped. on the last when ethe cover is turned back Laroundthe upper, and after wiping the `cover over the ,platform rdisposing ofthe excess leather or fabric which cannot be lasted :because of itsfullness by drawing it 'into the slit ,in the sheel lift.

By this method vand construction I have achieved: (1.) the sa'meVdurable and reliablebond between insole or sock lining and heel raiseas on A'alow heelshoe of the prior construction, as both pad and heelraise are coveredas a single unit by asingle combined pad and heel coverjoined `at the upper vedgeto the 'sock lining and lasted down over the`side of the combined .pad and heel and attached to the lower surfaceAof the combined Apad and heel platform unit; (2) an uninterrupted Vfromthe pad, Yor it maybe the heel portion of a platform having anintegralpad and heel platform construction, 'or a laminatedconstruction.

[The objects and advantages indicated and others will more fully appearfrom a considera tion of the description which follows taken inconjunction with the drawings.

4In the drawings:

Figure 1 is a side elevation of a shoe embodying Vour constructionwit-h'parts in cross section.

Figure 2 is a fragmentary horizontal cross section at the heel taken onthe line 2-2 of Figure 1.

Figure 3 is a bottom plan View of our shoe with vpart of the outsole cutaway.

Figure 4 is a side elevation of the shoe on the last prior to turningthe platform cover over the platform.

Figure is a view similar to figure 4 showing the platform Vcover turnedover the platform and partially wiped over the heel Wedge.

Figure 6 is a rear end elevation of the comtion.

Figure 7 is a view similar to figure 6 of a modified constructionembodying two slits in the heel.

Figure 8 is a view similar to figures 5 and 6' embodying a modifiedconstruction employing two slits in the heel.

Figure 8 is a view similar to figures 5 and 6 embodying a modifiedconstruction employing three slits in the heel.

Figure 9 is a view similar to figure 1 embodying our invention in ascoop wedge type of heel construction.

Figure 10 is a similar view illustrating the invention in a Dutch heelconstruction.

Referring to Figures 1 to 8, the completed shoe I embodying my inventioncomprises an upper I I and a sock lining insole I2 both stitched to aplatform cover I3, the sock lining being stitched to the cover all theway around. The upper illustrated is by way of example only, as anyother form or pattern of upper may be employed, and if it is a closedtoetype of upper the upper itself would be stitched to the sock lining allthe way around. The platform cover I3 encloses a platform I4 whichincludes a cushioning pad I and a wedge heel raise I 6. The shoe iscompleted by an outsole I1.

The upper, sock lining, and platform cover are cut and stitched togetherprior to lasting, and in a manner so that when the cover is turned overthe platform the stitching is concealed. The parts thus assembled arethen put on the last I8 and the platform spotted to the bottom of thesock lining, `preferably cemented thereto.

The platform preferably includes the cushioning pad I5 overlying thewedge heel raise I6, the twoelem-ents being cemented together orstapled'together or secured in any other convement manner, either beforeassembly in the shoe, Vor as separate steps in assembling the platformelements in the shoe. As an alternative construction, the wedgeheelraise may be superimposed above the cushioning pad, or the pad and wedgeheel raise may be made in an integral form, either solid or laminated,or the heel may be a separate element meeting the pad at about the breakof the shoe.

The heel portion of the platform is relatively high and is beveled fromthe top down to impart a narrowing effect. The toe portion of theplatform is preferably of a cushioning material, such as felt, sisal,cork, etc., and the heel portion may be the same in whole or in part,but the wedge heel raise will normally be wood, cork, compositionrubber, etc. The choice of material is not part of the presentinvention.

The heel raise I6 is formed with a substantially vertical slit 20extending from a point 2l near the upper surface of the heel raiseinwardly to a point 22 a substantial distance forward at the lowersurface of the heel raise, such points being joined by a diagonal cut23. In the form illustrated theslit is quite narrow, being intended onlyto accommodate with a frictional engagement a double thickness of theplatform cover I3. However, the width and design of the slit 20 may varyaccording to the design of the shoe, so long as it provides a recess forthe reception of a folded-in portion 24 of the platform cover in theheel area. The form of slit illustrated offers complementary spacedsurfaces 25 a-nd 26. The depth of the slit may vary according to thequantity of platform cover to be tucked in which in turn is controlledby the form of the last and the shape of the heel.

The platform cover may be made in one piece of fabric, leather, or othersheet material all the way around, as illustrated, or it may be made intwo or more pieces. In any event it will normally have at least oneoverlapping joint as at 21. It must be deep enough to provide for amarginal turned in portion 28 under the toe and a portion 29 to beturned in under the heel. Around the heel it must be full enough to befolded back over the lasted upper, as'illustrated in Figure 4, duringcertain stages of manufacture. When the assembled upper, sock lining andplatform cover are first mounted on the last the cover will be turned inthe position illustrated in Figure 4 to facilitate placement of theplatform on the shoe.

Assuming that the platform has been located on the bottom face of thesock lining and preferably secured thereto by cement in the relationshipillustrated in Figure 4, the platform cover is'then turned over the edgeof the platform and the toe portion of the cover pulled in and cementedto the bottom surface of the cushioning pad I5.

The next step in the present process is to pull the heel portion of theplatform cover close in and wipe the platform cover to the sides of theheel division of the platform, leaving the marginal portion 29 to becemented to the bottom of the heel region of the platform, and leavingthe extreme rear with the fullness 30 gathered, as in Figure 5.

The next step is to tuck the fullness 35 of the heel platform cover intothe slit 25 by any suitable thin instrument or blade, not illustrated.The slit is deep enough so that the fullness may be tucked in to therequired degree in order to snugly wipe the cover in against the heel,and the loose marginal edge material 29 of the cover may be pressed downand cemented to the bottom surface of the heel, resulting in theconstruction illustrated in Figure 3, wherein a cover crease 3l appearsexternally of the heel.

The shoe is then completed by cementing or otherwise securing theoutsole I'I to the bottom surface of the covered platform.

Instead of a single slit at the heel I may employ a plurality of slitswith cover creases Sla, as illustrated in Figures 7 and 8. Othervariations within the scope of the invention will be obvious. Forexample, the slits may be modified by widening the spacing andconverging the walls forwardly providing either a V shaped or curvedhorizontal cross section.

In the modified form illustrated in Figure 9, a scoop wedge heel 50comprises a wedge raise 5I extending forward to the break of the shoe asin Figure l, but formed with a scooped arch 52. The arch is treated aspart of the bottom of the platform in wiping the cover over theplatform, and the outsole follows the arch. Otherwise, the constructionand method are the same as already described.

Figure 10 illustrates the invention in a Dutch heel type of shoe,wherein a heel @El comprises a raise 6I terminating at about the waist52 of the shoe, leaving an arch 63 to be supported by a shank 54 underthe pad 65, which shank may seat in a recess 55 in the top of the heellift, and be feathered at the ball as at 6l. The outsole 68 follows thecontour of the arch as illustrated, Vcontacting the forward portion ofthe pad, the forward portion of the shank, and

the forward edge and the bottom of the heel raise.

Although I have herein shown and described my invention in what I haveconceived to be the most practical and preferred embodiment, it isrecognized that departures may be made therefrom within the scope of myinvention, which is not to be limited to the details disclosed hereinbut is to be accorded the full scope of the claims so as to embrace anyand all equivalent structures and methods. The invention is not usuallynecessary to, but can be employed in, the manufacture of low heel shoes,or non-beveled high heel shoes. It is applicable to any slip lastedshoe, whether the platform cover is a separate piece stitched to theupper or is integral with either the upper or insole.

Having described my invention, what I claim as new and desire to secureby Letters Patent is:

l. In the art of producing a slip lasted shoe wherein an upper and asock lining insole are stitched together and a heel cover of sheetmaterial is also stitched to the sock lining and upper before lasting,the improvement which comprises utilizing a heel cover fuller aroundthan the side contour of the heel to enable the cover when turned overthe upper to accommodate the last and thereby facilitate placement ofthe heel against the lower surface of the sock lining, providing a heelhaving a substantially vertical slit in its rear position, and fittingthe cover snugly over the heel by wiping the cover around the sides ofthe heel and tucking surplus heel cover material into said slit.

2. In the art of producing shoes wherein a heel is covered with sheetmaterial, the improvement which comprises utilizing a heel cover fulleraround than the side contour of the heel, providing a heel having asubstantially vertical slit in its rear portion, and fitting the coversnugly over the heel by wiping the cover around the sides of the heeland tucking surplus heel cover material into said slit.

v3. In the art of producing shoes wherein a heel is covered with sheetmaterial, the improvement which comprises utilizing a heel cover fulleraround than the side contour of the heel, providing a heel having asubstantially vertical slit in an exterior vertical portion thereof, andiltting the cover snugly over the heel by wiping the cover around thesides of the heel and tucking surplus heel cover material into saidslit, the inside surface of said cover being coated with adhesive priorto tucking whereby the coated surface of said cover is caused to adhereto the walls of said slit.

4. In the art of producing a slip lasted shoe wherein an upper and asock lining insole are stitched together and a heel cover of sheetmaterial is also stitched to the sock lining and upper before lasting,the improvement which comprises utilizing a heel cover fuller aroundthan the side contour of the heel to enable the cover when turned overthe upper to accommodate the last to facilitate placement of the heelagainst the lower surface of the sock lining, providing a heel having asubstantially vertical slit in its rear portion, and fitting the coversnugly over the heel by wiping the cover around the sides of the heeland tucking surplus heel cover material into said slit, the insidesurface of said cover being coated with adhesive prior to tuckingwhereby the coated surface of said cover is caused to adhere to thewalls of said slit.

5. In the art of producing a slip lasted shoe wherein the heel is arelatively high beveled wedge type and an upper and a sock lining insoleare stitched together and a heel wedge cover of sheet material is alsosecured to the sock lining and upper before lasting, the improvementwhich comprises utilizing a heel cover fuller around than the sidecontour of the heel to enable the cover when turned over the upper toaccommodate the last to facilitate placement of the heel against thelower surface of the sock lining, providing a heel having asubstantially vertical slit in its rear portion, and fitting the coversnugly over the heel by wiping the cover around the sides of the heeland tucking surplus heel cover material into said slit.

6. A heel for a shoe comprising a generally wedge type heel raise, saidheel raise being formed with a substantially vertical slit commencing ata point spaced from the top of said heel raise cut in from the surfacethereof which is on the outside of the shoe said slit being ofincreasing depth towards the bottom of said heel raise, and a single,continuous cover of sheet material over the outside surface of said heelraise fitted snugly thereto, said cover having an original fullnessaround its lower portion greater than the surface to be covered, and atuck of the unbroken area of said cover forced into said slit to removesurplus and improve the fit of said cover on said heel raise.

'1. A covered heel for a shoe comprising a beveled type heel raiseformed with a substantially vertical fiat walled recess extending infrom the outside and of uniformly increasing depth towards its lowerend, and a unitary cover of sheet material having an original excessfullness around and a marginal excess at the lower edge, said coverbeing snugly adhered to said heel raise and the fit of said covercompleted by drawing the excess material forced into said recess and theforced in material cemented uncut to the walls of said recess, and themarginal excess of the lower edge cemented to the bottom surface of theheel raise.

8. A covered heel for a shoe comprising a tapered heel raise formed witha substantially vertical flat walled recess extending in from theoutside and diagonally from the rear of the heel raise of increasingdepth forwardly and downwardly, and a cover of sheet material having anoriginal excess fullness around definable in a substantially triangularpattern foldable on a vertical center line from the apex of thetriangle, said cover fitted tightly over said heel raise with a snugadhesion thereto and the fit of said cover improved by having the excessmaterial forced into said recess.

WALTER BRAUN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number Name Date D. 94,046 Nutt Dec, 11, 1934 D.125,895 Keyes Mar. 18, 1941 1,713,177 Nutt June 18, 1929 1,738,715Marshall Dec. 10, 1929 1,761,359 Nutt June 3, 1930 1,849,247 Nutt Mar.15, 1932 2,314,205 rorscnner Mar. 16, 1943 2,341,676 Walsh Feb. 15, 19442,348,952 Braun May 16, 1944 24,362,639 .Knight Nov. 14, 1944

